Friday, December 11, 2009

The ghosts of winters past.

This is the season where even the mercury slows; where the humidity peaks alongside the sun and the air is a hot, wet mesh that wraps itself around you, covers your mouth and nostrils.

At this time of year even the tarmac softens and flexes underfoot - for this is the season where the glare from the sun will make us squint, cover our eyes. Take a single step outside the door and the day will attack, reflecting from whitewashed buildings and the bone-bleached pavements. On fierce days such as these there is no respite, no protection and on fierce days such as these, the heat takes on a lazy, malevolent sentience. It can be seen rising as a shimmering mirage from the ground, hanging thick over the harbour as a blanket of haze and slowing the tankers to a sluggish crawl as they push through on their way to dock, on their way out to open sea. On fierce days such as these, the blues are deeper and the whites sharper. This is the season which adjusts the settings, turning the contrast up on the world at the same time as it turns the volume down - as the day's noise reduces to the occasional sound; the rythmic, slow whoosh of a ceiling fan, the hum of air conditioning or the peals of laughter from the souls at the beach as they swim, play in the surf.

This is the season where the cruise ships sneak into harbour under cover of darkness, unload their passengers for a day's shore leave in our tropical outpost. This is the season where the markets thrive and the shoppers bustle; where the malls offer respite from the heat and where beaches offer respite from the malls. Above all, this is our festive season, hidden amongst the blaze of our summer and right at the end of our year. This is the three month period where temperatures soar, where Christmas falls and this is the time where planning is mandatory, where urgency increases with every passing day - and where motivation, urgency and plans fall away as the hours pass and the day heats up.

Evening will arrive eventually. It will bring darkness but no respite, no relief and the night will be full of crickets, the sky full of stars. Windows will be left wide open to welcome any passing breeze and washing will be hung out, left on lines overnight. It will dry before the sun has fully set, dampen again with the night's dew and dry again in the fledgling heat of a new day's infancy, long before the hour arrives and we have no choice but to venture outside again. We have no choice but to wade through another day's humidity, shielding our eyes as we shop for gifts, stock up on food - as the sweat prickles from our pores and runs in rivulets down our backs. The markets will be quiet this new day and the harbour empty, the cruise ship having summoned back its affluent shoppers, raised its anchor and departed whilst we slept. It will continue its journey , taking its passengers to one more port and one more market before they finally dock for good - before they disembark one final time, then return to their homes, their lives and their families. Before they wrap their purchases, write their cards, buy their food and prepare for their own Christmas Day.

And that Christmas Day will be here before long. Eventually the market stalls will be packed away one final time, offices will empty one final time. Doors will be locked and signs in shops will be turned to 'closed'. We will go home to our loved ones, wake the next morning to find that Christmas Day has snuck into our harbour under cover of darkness, whilst we were sleeping. We will open gifts, gather with our families and celebrate the birth of a man on the other side of the world thousands of years ago; a man born during winter and not this summer we sweat through now, thousands of years and thousands of miles removed from that defining event. The room we celebrate in will be decorated - festooned with tinsel and alpine imagery; with snowmen and fir trees and reindeer. In these surroundings we will sit in our shorts and teeshirts, our paper hats. We will sit under the cooling waft of a ceiling fan and eat our christmas dinner of salads, of cold meats. Outside our windows and outside our Christmas moment, the day's mercury will rises to inferno levels once again.

Sitting around this table, I will look at my family and be thankful. This day I will be grateful for my place in their lives and their willingness to embrace me, involve me and include me. This day I will eat my salad, my cold meats and enjoy the occasion - but this day I will also give thanks that I have my memories of scarves and thick coats; of Oxford Street's christmas lights, of late night crowds of shoppers on Piccadilly and of air so cold that it stings the face.

This day, I will feel my dual nationality more keenly than others. I will pull crackers, smile and be thankful for my past, the present and the promise of a future, this future.

30 interactions:

IndigoWrath said...

Hi Matthew, this must be a strange season on the other side of the world. I'll hope for snow on the big day of course, but I'll be happy with a frost. England will remember you and smile. Indigo

Nikonda said...

We found it odd when we were with you a few winters ago, seeing Christmas snowscenes in the malls when shoppers were out in shorts and sandals.

Don't worry - we'll phone this Christmas and remind you of the frosty chills you've left behind for Christmas dips at Nobby's. Doesn't sound so shabby ...

Eva Gallant said...

That was beautifully written, but here in the northern hemisphere are freezing our posteriors, and the only fans operating are those that are part of our heating systems!

kylie said...

you capture it all so well.
wonderful, wonderful writing, matthew

Blissed-Out Grandma said...

Lovely. It's mind-expanding to read such a vivid account of heat and humidity and know you are experiencing them now, while I have to go out into the minus-5-degree evening. Although I've spent a couple of Christmases in warm locations, I've never felt quite right about the snow-scenes-and-sandals situation. Guess I'm meant to be where I am.

M-Cat said...

Great post. My son is in Southern Chile right now and in the summer.
He returns on 1/1/10 - to dead winter. I wonder how long it will take his thin little body to adjust?

staceyjwarner said...

It must have taken you some getting use to Christmas in Summer! Wow!

There is so much to be thankful for!

much love

Mr. Charleston said...

Haven't given it much thought, but Christmas in summer just doesn't seem right. Maybe people in the southern hemisphere were meant to be Buddhists or the like. Isn't there some place down under where it snows? You may have to vacation in NZ.
BTW... Your description of the summer heat is spot on for Baja Georgia as well.

Baloney said...

I love the tone of this post.
I wondered how you feel about Christmas with summer weather!
It was 14 degrees here this morning. Brrrr.
Go stick your head in the freezer and it will feel like your old Christmases to you. Haha.

mo.stoneskin said...

I often wonder whether we have been in, say, Oxford Street, at the same time.

Being thankful in the little moments - such as when round the table - is such an important attitude.

Ribbon said...

Australia :)

best wishes for a fun loving summer
ribbon

JenJen said...

To the future, and crickets!

Joanna Jenkins said...

Beautifully written Matthew. It's strange having a "warm" Christmas but it sure beats having to shovel snow after the presents are opened :-)

Enjoy the weekend.
jj

Dan said...

Excellent as always Matt.

But mate, salad, at Christmas?

I feel for you dude.....

JennyMac said...

we put our tree up with the AC on in the house...its getting chillier now but I dont miss snowstorms, not a bit.

Love the story and love that you will embrace the dual aspect of this holiday. Its a great attitude. :)

LMJ said...

Very beautifully written. Now I wish I was in Australia. Hate hate the cold.

WhisperingWriter said...

Ahh Piccadilly. I was once there. I wish I had appreciated it more.

I need to get back to London. I must go to the Tower of London. I'm really into Henry VIII you see.

kys said...

I'm no fan of the cold temperatures and snow but I think I might feel very strange eating salad and trying to stay cool at Christmas.

The pale observer said...

This is amazingly written - it brings one into the scene immediately. Great post Matthew!!!

Thanks for the comments over at Holli's Ramblings as well! :)

Secretia said...

I like it that you express your thankfulness freely.

Frisky Librarian said...

I really can't fathom why winter Christmas imagery persists here after more than 200 Christmases in the midst of summer. It is the silly season, I suppose.

Really well written. I felt sweaty just reading it.

Madame DeFarge said...

Hope you enjoy it regardless, or maybe because, of the displacement.

Valerie said...

Beautifully written, Matthew.
I wish I was anywhere but here putting up with our mediocre weather. It's neither one thing nor the other.

Vera said...

Loved the picture you painted of your part of the world Matthew. We are living in SW France and will have a quiet non-family Christmas, but I have a shed full of memories from past Christmasses with the family, food, prezzies, and general chaos all mixed up together to make a soup mix of memories. But I am glad we are here, but it is made all the more precious because, like you, I have those previous times to cherish. Wishing you Joyeux Noel.

Paul Wynn said...

Matthew, I am not no where near gay but after reading this and your choice of words ... makes me gay for you.. great writing buddy

Rebecca S. said...

Now I understand why my mother-in-law sent my son a sunhat for Christmas when she was living in the Cayman Islands.
You are one good writer. For a few minutes I was living in the sultry heat, too.
I am signing on as of now.
Visit me too?

Matthew said...

Indigo... And as much as I love the heat, I'll remember England right back.

Nikonda... No, it's definitely not shabby. Just takes some getting used to.

Eva... I see snow on the new and it looks alien. :)

kylie... Thank you for the local seal of approval!

Blissed-Out Grandma... I guess maybe you are. As long as it's right for you then that's all that matters.

M-Cat... Dead winter - great term.

stacey... It's just hard to feel the urgency really.

Mr C... There's snow in the mountains in Winter - but winter's normally June/July here - and then I have to tolerate you people going on about the heat as I shiver in my sweater! :)

Baloney... I will report back from the chiller cabinet!

Matthew said...

Mo... If I'm not thankful I guess I've come a long way for nothing.

Ribbon... And to you. Here's hoping that TC Lawrence stays further north.

JenJen... Here's to those!

Joanna... Shovelling snow? Seeing even a smattering of the stuff would be a start. :)

Dan... And prawns. And meat. Just not a full-on roast job.

JennyMac... No, I don't miss snow either. The whole country seemed to grind to a halt.

LMJ... I'd much rather bake than freeze.

WWriter... Maybe Tom can get a posting to London in the future? That'd be good huh?! :)

Matthew said...

kys... Wise words and well said.

Pale Observer... Glad you think so. Always a pleasure to stop by your site.

Secretia... No point in keeping it hidden. :)

Frisky... Again, I'm grateful for a local seal of approval. Thanks for stopping by.

MDF... I'll make sure I do!

Valerie... That's what always struck me about this special day - it was always GREY.

Vera... What a beautiful way to look at it. :)

Paul... Cheers. I'm not into dudes either so I guess we're even.

Rebecca... Thanks for stopping by. Glad you managed to feel a few degrees from this. :)

Miss OverThinker said...

Its amazing how even when you talk about weather you can make it sound so poetic and romantic even.. I would trade the warmer weather that you have there right now in a heartbeat with below freezing temperatures here in Canada.. but there is something magical about a white Christmas.. I wonder how it feels to celebrate Christmas when it's warm..